Wide-track Cherokees and all J-trucks can handle 31x10.50's without a problem what so ever. My J-truck has stock saggin' springs and I *EASILY* have room for 32's without any rubbing. With a 3-inch lift I would be in the 35-inch range. You might want to update your chart."

"I have a  Jeep Cherokee, with a 4.0/manual. Just a comment about the rear end in Jeeps.  You said that the Jeeps only used two rear ends, but really they used three; the 8.25, the D30, and the D44.  The D44 was used in the '87 Cherokees with a towing package.  Just to clarify."

You're right, the Dana 44 was available in early Cherokees with the tow package option. Unfortunately the Dana 44 is no longer available in the XJ. It seems there weren't too many of the early Cherokee's sold with the Dana 44 rear end. From what I've noticed, the Chrysler 8.25 is predominantly used in 2WD Cherokees and the Dana 35 (the Dana 30 is the front axle) is used in the rear of most 4WD Cherokees.

"I have a 97 Jeep TJ, with a 4.0 and 5spd. I would like to somewhat disagree with your comments on spacer lifts as well as offer some useful information. My TJ, with a 2" spacer lift, JKS disco's, and TK sliders, ramped a 903 with Pro Comp ES 3000 shocks. My buddies' TJ has a 2" spacer lift, front sway bar discos, DT 3000 shocks, and he ramped a 968. I've got new shocks on order with Rusty after seeing that mine fell short in the travel department! Based on this firsthand knowledge and other personal testimonials, I can confidently say that a spacer lift with LONGER TRAVEL SHOCKS definately increases wheel travel. We both run 15x8 AR 767s with 4" of backspacing, and while he runs 31x10.50s, I run LT 325/60/15s which is a 31x13.50. We're both running stock control arms as well. Anyone that tells you that the stock arms aren't flexable is full of it. As for driveshaft vibrations, that is largely dependant on your transmission and rear axle combo. Here are some info on driveshaft lengths.

5 spd w/D44  11.0"
Auto  w/D44   12.5"
5 spd w/D35  13.5"
Auto  w/D35   15.0"

Both of us have the 5-spd D35 combo, and neither of us have any vibrations. I realize too that there are always exceptions, but from everything I've seen, it's quite rare. Don't take my comment as criticism, I'm merely stating everything I have seen, heard, read, and experienced firsthand. You have a very difficult job of trying to answer every possibly question about every make and model of Jeep. It's impossible to know it all, but you come very close and do a good job answering these questions. Thank you for letting me add my $.02. P.S. It has been quite the exception to hear of anyone with the D35 rearend to experiance driveshaft vibrations. They are however almost guaranteed with the D44 though. Allen"

"I have a 1981 CJ7, with a 1995 LT1/4L60E. Under body/Frame, someone put a kevlar body/hood/fender kit at $5000.  I just purchased a CJ7 kevlar body/hood/fenders for $2200.  I had them add red to the gel coat for $390 and shipping was $180.  When it arrived, I just set it on the frame a started mounting it, done!

For older CJ engine swaps, the 304, 360, 401 suggestion is great.  Definitely the easiest way to go.  But, if Chevy V8s are what they want, this can be done using the Jeep Iron Duke bell housing and a 10.5", 153 tooth flywheel.  The flywheel can be found on '85 or newer GM 4.3 V-6 or small block V-8s.  This was also used on '86 Camaros and Firebirds with a high-output 305 and a manual transmission, '87-'92 Camaros and Firebirds with a multipoint fuel-injected 305 and a manual transmission, and '86-'88 Corvettes with a manual transmission.

The stock clutch linkage can be used, and the bellhousing goes for around $125, drilled and tapped for your transmission if needed. The Iron Duke solution is rarely mentioned, but a cost affect way of putting a Chevy V8 into a Jeep."

Thanks for the update on the body info. You're absolutely right, using the Iron Duke bellhousing is a very easy way to swap in a small block chevy or 4.3 V6 into a late model CJ. Not only have I done this swap myself, but I've recommended it in the "Ask Grant" section numerous times. The only hesitation I have in using this bellhousing is that it only fits the SR4, T4, and T5 trannies unless (as you mentioned) you have it machined for another type of tranny. Mating a V8 to any of these late CJ transmissions is asking for a tranny failure. A 4.3 V6 however, would probably work just fine.

"I installed the Turbo City air tube and K&N filter this weekend and...WOW! My 4-cylinder '97 TJ is idling more smoothly, tackling hills without downshifting as soon, and responding to the throttle like never before.  (Not to mention there's now tons of room under the hood for an air compressor, auxiliary battery, etc.)  I'm stunned that this simple (and cheap) upgrade produced such results."

We're glad to hear that you are as satisfied as we have been with Turbo City's products. Comments like yours make it that much easier to recommend their products to others.

"I have a 1997 wrangler TJ, with a 4.0/man.. I have recently added a Warn M8274 winch to the front of my TJ. Now I know why everyone said "DON'T". When I did it dropped the front by about 2". Well with previous experience in parts sales at a local Jeep dealer I went there for help. "Can't help you" is what I got everywhere! So I took out on my own. To my surprise, the front coil springs on XJ Cherokee have the same dimensions! Only heavier duty. Chrysler #'s 52088104 & 52088105 will solve the problems people may run into when putting on a winch or snow plow...etc. They will suport about 300lbs more on the nose of the TJ's. I thought I would pass this along because most suspension lift companys won't sell you just the front springs, and besides these springs are FACTORY OEM parts, and cheaper than aftermarket. A pair runs about $90.00. They shouldn't void any warranty either since they are OEM parts. Just thought it might help. Bill"

Thanks for the info, we'll put it up for all to see.

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