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There is probably no single more beneficial modification you can make to improve off road capability than to install a quality suspension lift and larger tires, that's where this project starts. It seemed fundamentally wrong for a manufacturer to build a 4x4 (not to mention a Jeep) with dinky 215/75R15 tires. From the time the Jeep was purchased a few months ago, it was obvious a suspension lift and larger tires were in order.

Side View I had to keep lift and tire size to a minimum so that the Jeep would still be under the 6'6" height limit of the parking garage it frequents Monday through Friday. With this in mind, the lift needed to be 3 inches or less, with no larger than a 31-inch tire. After previous experience with a particular manufacturers 3 inch lift, including unbelievably stiff front coils, obnoxiously squeaky and poor riding add-a-leaf, and terribly valved shocks, I knew I wasn't going to make that mistake again. I was going to do it right, or not do it at all. This meant avoiding blocks, add-a-leafs, and coil spring spacers, none of which have any beneficial value aside from raising the vehicle and will generally give you more grief than they're worth. I only found one manufacturer that sold replacement lift coils as well as a full replacement spring pack in my desired lift range; enter Old Man Emu.

Never heard of Old Man Emu? It's the suspension end of the Australian based ARB, most notable for their air lockers. Not only did OME have the 2 inch lift I was looking for, they offer a choice of "medium" or "heavy" duty springs, as well as a choice of standard or "firmer" valved shocks to match. I chose the softer springs and shocks for this application. You might be wondering why I didn't pick those other brand spiffy adjustable shocks to go with the new springs, it was not a tough choice. Without being able to adjust rebound and compression dampening independently, I've never been able to get these shocks to perform exactly as I desired. The mentality of that same company that "if the shock physically fits, then it's the right one" was another factor in choosing the OME shocks. How can you honestly claim the same shock for the front end of a '69 4WD Suburban is the appropriate shock for the rear of a Jeep Scrambler? OME claims to develop each shock for it's specific application, and previous experience made the choice obvious.

Installing the new springs and shocks is straightforward, typical of lifting any solid axle vehicle. Replacing the rear leaf packs with the new OME springs is a simple job. After removing both of the factory springs, the factory rear swaybar was also permanently removed. The slightly stiffer OME springs should negate the need for the articulation robbing swaybar. Installing the new OME rear shocks and springs is a no brainer. The only installation tip I'd suggest is that you take the time to tighten the rear U-bolts evenly with a torque wrench. Without torquing the bolts properly, you might think you've got them tight until you drive a few miles.

The front spring and shock installation went even quicker since there are very few bolts to mess with. With the front suspension at full droop, remove both front shocks. With the shocks out of the way, you can remove the retaining bolt and tab at the bottom of each coil spring, then twist the spring and remove them by pulling them out toward the rear of the Jeep. Installing the new OME springs isn't quite as simple. Even without the springs and shocks installed, the axle will only drop as far as the lower control arms will let it, unfortunately, that's not very far. Since the OME coils are a little longer, there is not enough room to simply throw in the new coil springs the same way you removed the old. You'll have to either disconnect the lower control arms so that the axle will drop farther, or use a coil spring compressor to install the coils. I used the latter method. If you're not using air tools however, it would probably be quicker and easier to disconnect the lower control arm instead, using hand tools to tighten and later remove the spring compressors would take forever and would probably be the source for more than a few foul words.

The lift took me a little over 5 hours to install including a lunch break and frequent picture taking. So what was this labor worth? About 2 inches of lift in the front and 2 1/2 inches in the rear. The rear end sagged with the stock springs so the extra height in the rear actually leveled the Jeep. Measuring vertically from the ground, through the center of the wheel, to the bottom of the fender flare the front end now measures 32 1/2 inches, the rear is 32 5/8. The soon to be installed 30x9.50R15 tires should make for a perfect fit with no rubbing.

After driving the new suspension a few miles, I decided the best part about this lift really wasn't the increased ride height, but the much improved handling. How many times can you say that about a lift kit? The same dips in the road that used to put the stock Cherokee on it's bump stops can now be taken at speed thanks to the increased travel. The shocks are perfect (as advertised) for this application. I can't stress that enough, they are perfect. They don't just physically fit, the valving is (again) perfect. The only other suspension modification I will make is the addition of some sort of lower control arm that will not limit down travel in order to take full advantage of the new springs.

If you're looking for a moderate amount of lift for your XJ, this kit is the way to go. Increased wheel travel, improved ride, and the ability to run a larger tire are qualities that are rarely combined in an off-the-shelf suspension system.


Pictures:

Front Shocks
Rear Shocks
Front Springs
Rear Springs
Front Spring & Shock Installed
Rear Spring & Shock Installed
Rear Swaybar, Removed
Side View of Jeep, After Lift
Rear View of Jeep, After Lift
Front View of Jeep, After Lift



Dirt Road Magazine is sponsored by Turner 4WD Parts Co.