I'm not going to guess at your idle problem because it would be exactly that, a guess. There are too many possibilities. You might consider taking it to the dealer for a proper diagnosis.

I wouldn't suggest using the 258 block at all. The 4.0L head is not a direct bolt on and the 258 block probably will not have the appropriate mounting points for your accessories. You're likely to run into computer/sensor hookup problems too. Purchasing a rebuilt 4.0L would be a better way to avoid downtime.

I wouldn't bother rebuilding the engine, I'd invest the money in a larger engine instead. If you wanted a V8, you would need to replace your transmission, the rest of the drivetrain will hold up fairly well in normal driving conditions. You could use a T176 four speed out of a later CJ. It will hold up with the V8 and won't require a transfer case adapter. If you were interested in a Ford V8, then you could use a factory Ford bellhousing that will bolt directly to the T176. A Chevy V8 would require a special bellhousing. Driveshaft mods will most likely be required with either engine since the T176 transmission is much shorter than your existing T4.

Keeping your T4 happy means using a six cylinder. The 4.3 V6 will bolt up to your bellhousing. You'll need new motor mounts from Advance Adapters and a larger radiator. If you're wanting to upgrade to EFI, this would be a slick and cost effective swap. Virtually all 4.3's were fuel injected.

Of course you can run the stock Jeep straight six. You'll need to get the bellhousing with the engine, and again, a larger radiator. If you decide to go this route, you can sell your old bellhousing for a good chunk of change (since it has the Chevy 4.3 V6/small block V8 bolt pattern) to help offset the cost of the new engine.

The Vortec V6 would work fine and allow for much more spirited driving. To be on the safe side you should probably swap your transmission for a more sturdy unit to match the new engine. You can get more information on this swap from JB Conversions (http://ng.netgate.net/~tc/jbconversions). JB Conversions specializes in installation of late model Chevy V6 and V8 engine swaps. You could order all the parts necessary from them, or have them install it for you.

I'd seriously consider using a 4.0L straight six out of another wrangler however. Using factory parts would make for a fairly easy swap, and the low rpm torque would be superior to the Chevy V6.

If the chain was stretched, it might jump under heavy acceleration but it should still work fine with a light load. Sounds like it's time to take your jeep to the tranny shop.

This is my first 4WD but I do have a broad knowledge of mechanics as I race a SODA class supercharged buggy."

If you can locate the slop in the drivetrain you'll likely find the problem. Start turning driveshafts and axles by hand to check for free play.

Wouldn't it be nice to go to your local Jeep dealer and pick out your new TJ with a magnum 318 or even 360? I wouldn't be too surprised if that were a future concept vehicle.

Anyway, to answer your question, you'll have to do a tranny swap for the conversion. The 4 cyl trans (I'm assuming you have a 5 speed) won't survive with a V8. Even the 4.0L engine uses a stronger transmission. It would actually be much simpler to use a transmission and engine from a Dodge 1/2 ton 4x4. This will avoid any engine computer problems regarding mismatched engine/trans combinations. Transmission to transfer case adapters could also be avoided since the Dodge trucks are using an NP231 transfer case. You'll be on your own for fabricating motor mounts and figuring out the wiring.

TPS stands for Throttle Position Sensor, I doubt it's causing the problem. The symptoms of a bad TPS are usually more dramatic. Your problem sounds more along the lines of a vacuum leak. I strongly recommend to anyone with a stock engine that is experiencing driveability problems to take their jeep to the nearest dealer for service. It's hard to find people who are more experienced with your vehicle, the results generally justify the cost. Jeep was using the GM 2.8 V6 in '86, the 4.0L wasn't introduced until '87. Due to the length of the inline 4.0L, this is not an easy swap for older cherokees. There were several changes in the body to accomodate the new engine. A 2.8 V6 swap would likely be fairly easy given the right donor vehicle. The problem is the 2.8's performance was hardly any better than the 2.5 four cylinder, you'd spend a whole lot of time and money for very little benefit. If you want to install a larger engine, consider a GM 4.3 V6 swap, or trade in your cherokee for a newer 4.0L model.

Your brother has tons of choices for engine swaps. Everything from a Buick V6 to a Ford V8. I'd suggest contacting Advance Adapters (805-238-7000)for a catalog listing the numerous engine and transmission swap options.

The 4.0L motor mounts may or may not be in the same location on the frame as the 4 cyl, mounts. I don't think it will matter, when the frame is originally produced they probably don't know which engine it will ultimately have in it. If the two engines have different mounting points on the frame, I'd bet both sets of holes are already there.

The 4 cyl fuel pump should work fine, they flow far more than the engine can use. That's why there's a return line.

You didn't mention which transmission you're installing. If you're installing a 5 speed, go for the 4.56 gears with 33" tires. This is a good gear choice with an OD trans. If you're swapping in a 3 speed auto, stick with the 4.10's since you won't have an OD.

The AX-15 is obviously not the ultimate transmission for off road use due to it's lack of a low first gear, however, it is a reasonably strong unit that can be had for less than half the cost of the popular and plenty stout NV4500. Keep in mind the NV4500 will require an adapter at both sides of the transmission, the AX-15 will bolt to your transfer case without an adapter. Both the NV4500 and AX-15 swaps will require replacement of your 21 tooth transfer case input gear with a 23 tooth gear. Of course you could always use one of the Chevy autos if you don't feel like shifting anymore.

You shouldn't have to lower your transfer case if you do the tail shaft conversion.

I'm afraid I won't be of much help on this one. I've had the same problem before on two different manual transmission Jeeps. As far as I can tell it is caused by slop in the drivetrain. No matter how new the vehicle, when the power is routed through so many different gearsets, there is bound to be some slack between "coast" and "drive". Applying slight pressure on the brake pedal or even lightly setting the e-brake will put enough load on the vehicle to stop the jerking, though obviously it's not the ideal fix.

Also, will a T-176 four speed handle my almost stock 304? And what would be involved in it's transplant?"

I don't profess to know how to diagnose and repair transmission internals, so I'm not going to guess exactly why your tranny doesn't stay in 2nd gear. When I have problems like this, I pull the tranny and drop it off at a shop.

The T-176 will handle your V8, Jeep used it in 1980 with the 304. The T-150 and T-176 share the same bellhousing bolt pattern, the problem is the input shafts are slightly different lengths and the pilot tips are different diameters. Your best bet is to get a T-176 bellhousing with the trans to avoid input shaft length problems. The T-176 will require an adapter for your transfer case, contact Advance Adapters for the part (advanceadapters.com)

Considering you're not using any oil, and the bearings were replaced 50K ago, you definately don't need to replace the engine. The problem is your oil pump, it's simply worn out. Your oil pressure isn't dangerously low yet, but your pump should be replaced with a new (not rebuilt) unit. Part of the reason the pressure has tapered off since the rebuild is that those new bearings are wearing and the tolerances are increasing, resulting in lower oil pressure.

Second: How much am I gonna gain by installing headers? Is it going to be worth the expense?"

If you want to try using the CJ header, I'd suggest purchasing it from a company that doesn't mind taking it back if it doesn't fit. Without inspecting the two headers side by side, I couldn't tell you whether the CJ header would work, but it would be worth a try.

If you hadn't made flow improvements on the intake side, I'd say don't bother with the header. Since you have, the header will help, probably 5-10 hp.

You have TONS of options. You should change your transmission for the swap, T5's don't like V8's. You could use one of the older GM 4 speeds and use an adapter for the transfer case. You could use a T-176 Jeep four speed and buy an Advance Adapters bellhousing to mate the 350. If you want to keep the OD, there's always the GM or Dodge version of the NV4500 5 speed, that option can get very expensive though. You could also use the GM TH700R4 overdrive automatic, again, with just an adapter to the transfer case. The transfer case and the rest of the original drivetrain, driven responsibly, will generally hold up well with the 350.

The 87 had a Chrysler built 999 "Torqueflite" transmission, the 92 had an Aisin built, electronically controlled transmission. Both are 3 speeds and are not overdrive transmissions. Neither are prone to failure.

The axle swap shouldn't be any problem. I can't think of any reason why it wouldn't be a straight bolt in. You'll probably have to replace your master cylinder with a later one designed for disc brakes though.

Detroit Lockers are strong and they work. I'm very satisfied with mine. It's on road manners aren't the best (you get used to it pretty quick), but it shines off road. You may not want to put a locker in the front if you put in a lot of miles on snowpacked highways, it can be a little nerve racking.

Try Calmini (800-345-3305) or Advance Adapters (800-350-2223) for conversion parts and info. If you can find the VIN # on the Jeep, try running it through our VIN program to get the year. If that doesn't work, contact the Department of Motor Vehicles in your area.

Check your transmission mount, you shouldn't get that much movement in the drivetrain just from hitting the brakes. If that checks out ok, bend or notch the crossmember for clearance.

I don't know what the EPA estimates were, but if you're getting 15 mpg in your Jeep, your doing good. My experience with a YJ similar to yours is that there is just not enough power in that engine to push a box much faster than 75. It takes a lot of power to overcome the aerodynamic drag of a CJ or YJ at freeway speeds.

The stock carb works very well when it's properly tuned, I'd recommend rebuilding over replacing with a different model.

The added axle has very little effect on high speed performance. As for your transmission, and axles for that matter, they're anything but low geared. You'd gain some performance and maybe even a little mileage if the axles were a slightly lower ratio. Even for your reluctant-to-rev 258, 1900 rpm at 75 mph is a little low.

My '86 XJ does not have fuel injection so I am wondering if it would be a candidate for the swap. My transmission is a manual."

The 3.4 is supposed to be externally identical to the 2.8. On paper this should be a simple bolt in deal, particularly since you don't have EFI.

Since there's a whole lot of room between the paper and a wrench, you might contact Advance Adapters and see if they've done the swap yet, and what problems if any they've encountered.

With a mild V8 and open differentials, I think the Dana 30 and 35 would hold up fine. Since you're running lockers in both ends and considering the 4:1 gearset swap, the amount of torque to any given axleshaft could be extreme.

In your case, consider either a 4.0L swap or even a Chevy 4.3 V6 before you dump the big dollars on gears lower than 4.10. The 6 cylinder engines will cure your highway blues, and your axles will be much happier than with a V8. If you have a standard transmission, you will need to replace it if you install a larger engine, the AX-15 (used with 4.0L YJ's) is an easy and relatively inexpensive swap. To get an accurate price estimate for the swap, call some salvage yards and price the engines and transmissions, be sure to include the wiring harness and engine computer.

I suspect the bracket failure was a fluke. The Grand Cherokee is a capable off road vehicle, it just happens to be more comfortable than most.

I have heard of an older Wrangler rear axle which used reverse gears so that the pinion is on the top (above the axle) and the differential is near center. Do you know of such an axle? If so, will it bolt to my leaf springs and is it nearly the same length?"

Jeep has always used a standard rotation (pinion below axle centerline) Dana 35 rear axle in the wrangler. I'd recommend looking at an older CJ5 Dana 44 as a candidate for an axle swap. The Dana 44 is a much stronger unit and would come a lot closer to being a straight bolt in, you'll just have to take a measuring tape to one to find out.

Since the ARB's are essentially "open" differentials until locked, they'll have no affect on towing. Less expensive lockers and even limited slips will cause the front driveshaft to turn during towing adding unnecessary wear. Of course, you could always remove the front driveshaft prior to towing it.

In this case, if you can bring yourself to sell your cherokee, it would be best to buy another with a 4.0L engine. The expense of buying a newer cherokee will probably be less than swapping in another engine. If you can't part with your jeep, then I'd suggest a Chevy 4.3 V6. There's plenty of these engines around and Advance Adapters has the parts to bolt one up. I wouldn't suggest trying to install a jeep 4.0L as there were body and front clip changes to accommodate the length of the straight six.

Never let that Jeep dealer (or at least that particular person) touch your Jeep. The 4.2L (258ci) 6 cylinder has been around forever and was used as a very popular option in your 89 model.

Unless it's in very bad shape, I'd stick with the 84 engine for your 84 Jeep. You may run into some difficulty installing accessories if there were any casting changes between the two blocks and heads.

The AX5 was used with 4 cylinder YJ's and XJ's only, Jeep didn't even trust it with a 6 cylinder. It would die pronto with your 304 if there were adapters available to hook it up.

I'll assume you don't have a Ford 302 in your CJ, rather the stock AMC 304. I would strongly suggest you keep it as opposed to swapping in a Chevy 350. If you're wanting more power from your 304, consider making some C.A.R.B. approved modifications to your existing engine. If you're considering the swap just to gain cubic inches, you can bolt in an AMC 360 or 401 without the use of any expensive adapters.

Do I have a short in the ingition switch?"

It's quite possible that your ignition switch is bad. Check the power going into the coil with a test light while the ignition switch is on. Wiggle the key in the switch and see if the light flickers, if it does, replace the ignition switch. If power is good, replace your ignition coil. If there's no power to the coil, replace your ignition module inside the distributor.

Your NP231 transfer case is a durable unit despite the bad rap that aluminum cased, chain driven cases receive; I doubt it's your source of trouble. To make sure it's engaging the front driveshaft properly, park the jeep on a flat surface with the transmission in first and transfer case in 2H, the front driveshaft should rotate freely by hand. With the transmission in gear and transfer case in either 4H or 4L, the front driveshaft should not turn more than 180 degrees.

Your problem is likely in the front axle vacuum disconnect system. A set of vacuum lines connect to the front axle on the passenger side that engage/disengage the axleshafts. If these lines are broken or have been pulled out, the front axle will not engage.

81-83 Jeep CJ's originally equipped with a GM 4 cylinder won't require a bellhousing adapter for a small block Chevy. Both engines have the same bellhousing pattern. The problem is, the SR4, T4, and T5 transmissions used with this 4 cylinder will not last long (like a few months) with the new V8. Unless you don't mind replacing transmissions a couple times per year, don't use a V8 with this tranny. The only other weak spot is the AMC Model 20 rear axle shafts. The stock units are a two piece press fit design, to say they are prone to breakage is an understatement. They can easily be replaced with reliable aftermarket one piece units.

What modifications are required for a 3" body lift are dependent on the particular Jeep you buy. I generally recommend avoiding body lifts over 1" due to the number of potential complications.

Check the speedo gear in the transfer case and at the cable end, one or possibly both of them will need to be replaced.

Here are a few reasons for and against an engine conversion in your YJ.
Pros:

1. More power!

1. Reduced drivetrain life due to added stress of V8.

2. High cost of adapters.

3. Cost of purchasing a V8 new, used, or rebuilt, including any core charge.

4. Cost of new exhaust system.

5. High potential of emissions legality problems.

6. Your Jeep will no longer be "original".

You probably have a T4 trans, although it could be an SR4, they are nearly identical.

Believe it or not, you don't need an adapter to mate the 305 to your transmission. You may have noticed that your 4 cyl was built by GM. It has the same bellhousing bolt pattern as the small block Chevy. You will need new motor mounts, you can get them from Advance Adapters (advanceadapters.com). You can either weld or bolt them in.

The Jeep will be trailered out to the desert. Makes more sense to use the 4 cyl doesn't it?"

I guess you'll need to decide what you want from your Jeep. If all you want is reliability and the current engine is running fine, then keep it. The 4 cylinder engine probably won't produce enough torque to be a serious threat to the rest of your drivetrain. If you want a go anywhere and get there fast Jeep, go for the V8 swap. Virtually any "granny low" 4 speed from either a CJ or Chevy truck can be made to fit at comparable costs. However, with a built small block Chevy, you're now risking transfer case breakage, U-joint/driveshaft, and axle failures. If you dramatically increase the size of the engine in your CJ, EVERYTHING else behind it has to be upgraded accordingly to maintain reliability.

The Quadratrac transfer case doesn't exactly have a sterling reputation and consequently it probably isn't worth much. Most people are trying to get rid of them. The TH400 is a stout transmission and would be excellent for anyone using an AMC 6 cyl or V8 that wants an automatic transmission. The only problem is that Jeep only used this tranny with a Quadratrac transfer case in CJ's, any other transfer case would require an adapter.

If your local parts store can't handle it, then try either our sponsor, Turner 4WD parts (800) THE-JEEP, or Leon Rosser Jeep (800) 633-4724. Both companies are familiar with older Jeep parts.

Engine and transmission swaps are not cheap and you can certainly build a very capable Jeep around your 4 cylinder engine. Start with your lift and tires, add either Lock Rights or EZ Lockers to both ends, plus some front sway bar disconnects and you will be amazed at where you can go. If you are unsatisfied with the off-road performance of your 4 cylinder YJ after the modifications, then consider an engine swap. One point to consider, adding a V8 will not increase traction, but admittedly it does increase the fun factor.

The TH350 probably would be the most practical swap if you had a CJ7. I think the short wheelbase of your CJ5 will limit you to a 3- or 4-speed transmission since the autos are much longer and won't leave enough room for a rear driveshaft. Some factory Jeep four speeds that will bolt up to your Dana Spicer model 18 transfer case are the T98, T18, or T14. All of these can withstand V8 power but some may require changing the input shaft of your transfer case. You will also need another adapter for the new transmission to mate your 327.

Thanks for any help you can give."

Jeep was using the excellent Buick V6's in 1970, but parts availability isn't going to improve on these engines since Jeep quit using them 25 years ago. However, if you can find the factory engine, bellhousing, and transmission (either a T86 or T14) this would probably be the most economical swap.

The only other V6 that's easily adaptable is the Chevy 4.3. Almost all of these engines were originally fuel injected so you'll have to get a wiring harness and computer to go with it.

You may want to consider one of the smaller Chevy V8's like the 305. Leave the engine stock and replace the transmission with a stronger unit. The cost would likely be less than an EFI 4.3 V6 swap.

Higher elevations can certainly necessitate carb adjustments. You will need to decrease the amount of fuel entering the engine to compensate for the lower oxygen content in the air. Before you start messing with the carb though, check your fuel pressure, it should be around 5 psi at idle. You may have to install a fuel pressure regulator to achieve this. If that doesn't alleviate some of it's bad manners then make sure float level is correct. Beyond that, lean the air fuel mixture, possibly even install smaller jets. One of those three things should get it driveable if not quite perfect.

Other than to tell you to adhere to the break in instructions in your owners manual, I'd say just simply keep your foot out of the throttle. Don't run the engine hard, treat it like a baby for the first couple thousand miles.

Go for the V8 swap. Your 258 would require extensive work using expensive aftermarket parts just to equal the torque of a stock 350.

Small block chevy parts are very cheap and are more readily available than AMC engine parts. The adapters to swap the Chevy into your CJ however, are not so cheap. You will need a new bellhousing for your T176 trans (which will hold up fine), new motor mounts, and an entirely new exhaust system. Consider this the one time purchase that it is and remember some of the expense of the adapters will be offset due to the lower cost of the 350.

Enjoy your new found torque, it's worth it.

How much longer the new engine/trans/transfer case will be depends on which Chevy trans and transfer case you intend to swap and what is currently in your Jeep. Even if the new setup is approximately the same length, the U-joint sizes in your existing driveshafts will be too small and you will have to have new driveshafts built anyway. If you keep your existing Dana 300 transfer case (which is an excellent unit) no driveshaft modifications would be required and a lot of headaches spared. You will need to purchase an adapter from the trans to transfer case and simply bolt in your new trans and 350.

It would be great to hear that it is the same procedure as the one you described."

I can't think of any reason whatsoever the swap wouldn't work on the Cherokee as well. If you do the swap, obviously you'll need to be sure to get the AX-15 out of a Cherokee rather than a Wrangler as brackets and shifters will be different.

Your T150 transmission will not just "bolt up". You will need to purchase either an adapter plate to use a factory GM bellhousing with your trans or a full Advance Adapters (800-350-2223) bellhousing (recommended). If you buy the new bellhousing, no clutch linkage modifications will be needed. Your existing T150 trans will hold up fine with V8 power, swapping to a 4 speed is purely optional.

If you currently have a Peugeot transmission in your Cherokee then the conversion could still be done. Be sure to find an AX-15 with shifter and brackets from a Cherokee and not a Wrangler. The rest of the conversion details would still apply.

If you're sure that a lifter is your problem, then they can be replaced with new lifters and used on your old cam. Never use old lifters with a new cam however.

A swap to a 4.0L would not be very difficult as you could use all factory parts. You will need to find a suitable "donor" vehicle and completely gut the engine compartment, including wiring harness, computer, motor mounts, radiator, and transmission (your 4 cyl transmission won't hold up). You may also consider a Chevy V8 for a swap as the price may be cheaper than a good 4.0L, either way you will need a new transmission. Your 4.10 gears will work well with either a 4.0L or V8, I'd work on replacing your 4 cyl. engine before doing a gear swap.

I have replaced the rings and the valve seals, PCV suction is fine and it only blows oil above 80 mph. PLEASE HELP IT'S DRIVING ME CRAZY."

This is a common nuisance with this engine. These engines with very low miles and in excellent condition exhibit the same problem. I would guess that the engine is not so much pumping oil through the tube but more the vacuum inside the air cleaner housing is pulling it in. Try using an external breather in place of the vent tube and see if that cures the problem.

If you go with either a stock Chevy or Buick V6, your drivetrain should hold up assuming it's in good condition. If you just want a little more horsepower while maintaining reliability, this is the way to go. If you go with a V8, count on breaking parts. You will at very least need to replace the transmission with a stronger unit. As to whether the rest of the drivetrain holds up depends on your driving habits and whether you can resist building a high performance engine for your new toy.

The bad news is that this conversion would be incredibly difficult, grossly expensive, and you would be completely on your own for fabricating mounts. The 241 case will work fine if you do the conversion. The good news is you will have a fantastic setup and are virtually guaranteed a feature article in a magazine if you can somehow squeeze a Cummins under the hood. A more practical swap may be the Chevy 6.2L diesel V8 if you have to have an oil burner.

Replacing the cylinder head is more time consuming than it is difficult. Any Haynes or Chilton manual will give instructions for the job, factory manuals are usually far better though. Before you spend the money on another cylinder head you may want to take your jeep to a professional mechanic for a diagnosis. If there are no reputable shops in your area, it's hard to beat the dealer when your jeep is still stock.

Lowering the transfer case shouldn't have any affect on the shifting of the transfer case or transmission, however, remove both boots and make sure either shifter is not coming in contact with the body tub. As for your gear swap, consider it mandatory. Remember this would be the best time to add a locker or limited slip too.

The 4.2L and the 4.0L have the same bellhousing patterns. You will need the new AA bellhousing because it has provisions to mount the required 4.0L flywheel sensor that triggers the ignition.

Second, the jeep has developed a hydraulic leak in the clutch. It's not in the reservior or the line leading from the reservior to the clutch housing so I assume it's leaking inside the clutch housing and collecting on the bottom of the transmission housing. What would it cost to have this leak repaired on average?"

You are certainly not alone in your carburetor problems. I've had a similar experience with an 89 YJ. I let my Jeep dealership rebuild the carburetor since I didn't want the local garage to slap together a rebuild that probably wouldn't be any better than what I could do myself. It was money well spent and I couldn't believe how well it ran, no hesitation, no rough idle, no stalling. To answer your question, I wouldn't swap it for anything else as a different carburetor will probably be just as troublesome as the Carter, just have it rebuilt by someone who is familiar with that particular carburetor.

You have a one piece throwout bearing/slave cylinder unit inside your bellhousing that is causing the leak. Since it is leaking, your clutch disk may be soaked with hydraulic fluid. Whether it is soaked or not, considering your mileage you should probably do a complete clutch job while you're there since the transmission will have to be removed to replace the throwout bearing/slave cylinder assembly. I would estimate between 500 and 800 dollars for parts and labor, just be sure to shop around.

You didn't mention whether you have driven a newer Wrangler yet, you might be pleasantly surprised with the power of the new 4.0L sixes. They are a huge improvement over the old carburetted 4.2L.

If you still want a V8, there are plenty of companies manufacturing adapters to do the conversion. The most common and easiest engine to swap into a Wrangler is the small block chevy V8 due to parts availability and cost. There are adapters to install a ford V8 into your Wrangler as well. Either one of these engines would be easy to install, anything else could become very difficult and costly.

If the 4.0L does bore you, and you have any specific questions as to what engine you would like to install, feel free to ask.

I'd suggest placing a phone call to the manufacturer of the carburetor and obtaining the linkage information from them. A good shop manual will help you with your transmission/vacuum problem.

When installing a suspension lift on any vehicle there are several issues relating to safety that need to be addressed. The first is obvious, a higher center of gravity. The 2 to 3 inch lift you are looking for is not going to change this dramatically, most if not all of the change could be offset by installing wider tires on rims with less backspacing, thereby making the vehicle wider as you go taller. Usually rims and larger tires are the reason for buying the lift anyway. The second problem is braking. Larger tires are harder to stop due to their increased weight. Aluminum rims will help offset this problem somewhat, but braking distances will suffer slightly unless some modifications are done to the system. The most popular option is to install disc brakes on the rear axle since they are far superior to drums in terms of stopping power. This mostly applies to vehicles running 35" tires or larger. Again, since you are going with a moderate amount of lift, the tire size and weight will not be increased dramatically. A 32 or 33 inch tire on an aluminum rim is really not very heavy and may be the same as a stock tire on a steel rim. The brake lines must also be relocated or replaced with longer lines since the axle is being moved away from the frame. You'd really hate to tear apart a brake line that was too short while wheeling down a hill. Finally, the only other problem is related to the quality and completeness of the kit itself. Does the kit address drive-shaft angles so no vibration is experienced? Are there any provisions for retaining the swaybar(s)? Try and find people with the same lift you are considering and ask for their opinions, they may tell you things the guy behind the sales counter wouldn't. Any lift over 4" will require all of the above modifications (plus a lot more I haven't mentioned) to retain driving characteristics close to stock. By keeping the lift small and with a reasonable tire size, neither driveability or safety are sacrificed.

I am assuming you have a Model 18 transfer case, this was the last year they were made. It can be identified easily because the rear driveshaft is on the passenger side of the vehicle instead of centered behind the transmission.

You have two reasonable choices for replacements. The Model 20 case (72-79) has the same low range ratio as the 18, 2.03:1. It also has the same transmission mounting pattern as the 18. The Model 20 used three different input shafts, 6, 10, and 23 splines. The 18 was available in a 6 and 10 spline input shaft, you'll obviously have to get a 6 or 10 spline case to match your transmission. This transfer case is the easiest to bolt to your transmission but you will have to buy a different rear axle housing as the rear driveshaft is directly in line with the transmission on the Model 20 cases. I'd suggest trying to find a transfer case and rear end out of a 72-79 CJ5. The Model 20 case is a fairly strong unit and was used behind plenty of 304 powered CJ's.

The better and far more difficult way would be to find a Dana 300 transfer case out of a 79-80 International Scout. It has the same transmission mounting pattern as the 18 and 20 but has a superior low range of 2.61:1. These were only available with a 6 spline input on 4 speed's and a 23 spline on autos. You would still have to get another rear axle housing as it is a straight through design as well. This is assuming your pinion on the rear end is directly in line with your existing model 18 transfer case. If the pinion is centered on the housing then you will not need to replace it for either swap.

If you are using a T90 transmission than you should consider replacing it with the transfer case as it is a light duty unit. This is something you need to think about before shopping for another transfer case. If this was not enough information then contact Advance Adapters at 800-350-2223. They have plenty of detailed information and will steer you straight.

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